ANTS IN YOUR PLANTS
COMMON NAMES: Cornfield Ant, Red Ant, Sugar Ant, Carpenter Ant, etc...
DESCRIPTION: ADULTS - 1/8" to over an inch long, these slender insects are usually black, brown, or red in color. Unlike the termites, ants have tiny "wasp" waists and the hind wing of the reproductives are smaller than the front ones. They have powerful jaws and elbowed antennae. The PUPAE, grub like LARVAE and EGGS are usually not seen since they are safely cared for deep under the ground in a maze-like colony.
LIFE CYCLE: Newly hatched reproductives fly from an established colony, mate, and start their own nest in an acceptable location. The solitary queen lays thousands of eggs which hatch into sterile workers and soldiers. The workers forage for food which they bring back to feed the hive and take care of the eggs, larvae, and pupae of the next generation. The soldiers protect the colony from invasion by other ants and any other intruders. They store food in special underground rooms in the colony for use when it is too cold to go outside.
HOST PLANTS: With the exception of leafcutter ants, these insects normally do not bother plants. Most species feed on organic matter. They will, however, "harvest" seeds and grains to carry back to the colony. Most ants are in fact beneficial insects for the garden. They prey on the eggs of almost all pest insects, many larvae, and many small pests such as mealy bugs, scales, fleas, and even small roaches. They are natural scavengers and have even been known to attack termites looking for a place to establish a colony. Many species do not eat the honeydew from aphids and become "pests" by protecting these creatures as the aphids feed on the crops.
TIME OF YEAR: ALL! Less active in winter but will emerge on warm days.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Aphids - if you have lots of these, chances are you will find ant "herdsmen" taking care of them. Hills of soil at the entrance(s) to the ant colony. Lines of worker ants following an established "trail" to a food source or back to the nest.
PROBLEMS AND DAMAGE: Leafcutter ants cut chunks out of foliage to take to their nests. Others "herd" and protect aphid populations. Ant bites HURT (especially small children) and the sting may cause allergic reactions in some people. Many times they will come inside dwellings and invade kitchen cabinets and pet food.
CULTURAL CONTROLS: Clean up garden litter. Keep your compost pile hot so they won't nest there. Control aphids. Put "moats" around your trees. Trim away branches so that they don't provide bridges for ants to cross. Keep a clean house, wipe up sugary spills, and don't leave pet food lying around.
COMPANION PLANTING AND REPELLENTS: Mints and anise are said to repel ants, as is red pepper, Pennyroyal, tansy, and borax. They are supposedly reluctant to cross lines of bone meal, powdered charcoal, or citrus juice/peels.
MECHANICAL CONTROLS: Pour boiling hot water on the nest (approx. 8 gals), repeat in a few days if necessary. Put a sticky band around each tree near the base. Use a forceful water spray on plants to knock them off on a regular basis. Use soapy water. Patch cracks to keep them out.
CHEMICAL CONTROLS: Call the Cooperative Extension office for current recommendations. Use products CARFULLY. Take safety precautions. Follow directions EXACTLY!